Coffee plant |
This is coffee when it first starts – up in
the beautiful and verdant Western Ghats of India, almost pristine, in harmony
with its biodiversity, its rivers, its wildlife, its trees and hills, sacred
groves, (Devara Kaadu) local deities and farmers. Under a high canopy of shade trees, coffee in India grows gloriously alongside
pepper, cardamom, oranges and arecenut.
The coffee flower smells nothing like what
it taste - the flowering of the coffee plant,
gives a sweet fragrance, intoxicating the entire landscape.The blossom of the coffee plant transforms the landscape to appear like a white, fragrant
laden sheet – its smell sweet, the air gentle. This rousing lasts ,sadly, for just a few days
before the coffee flower matures to become the coffee seed and ready to be picked.
Coffee blossom |
Coffee grows only in tropical countries and grown mostly by small farmers as a cash crop. Due to the predominance of small coffee growers in India, (according to The Coffee Board of India almost 98% of coffee
is grown by marginalized and small farmers) , coffee is sold through agents –
this buying and selling happens at the “gate”. The agent offers a price and
farmer takes what he gets – because some commodity trader sitting in a glass
office has decided the price of this precious bean.
A coffee farmer sun drying his coffee |
Coffee seeds are dried, roasted and powdered to make coffee
powder.Sometimes the coffee goes to towns and
cities for further trade and household consumption- as filter coffee, in
South India, or as ghastly instant coffee that is produced by the likes of
Nestle.Some find their way into cafés to become the classic espresso, or cappuccino or other high street coffees - for which there are millions of consumers who are willing to pay a couple of dollars a pop. In the multibillion coffee industry, the profits go mainly to the shippers, the roasters and the retailers.
But if you are a traditional coffee drinker and relish your coffee, you avoid the Starbucks and Café Coffee Days - instead you would go to an unpretentious hole in the wall – "Gayathri Coffee Works" for example- and buy premium Arabica coffee, freshly grounded for about Rs. 360 a kilo.
Gayathri Coffee Works, Mysore |
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